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Tzute
is a general word
used to refer to a
wide variety of square
or rectangular utility
cloths that are frequently
back strap woven,
village specific,
and destined for many
distinct uses. The
word describes, for
example, basket covers,
baby carriers and
various ceremonial-use
cloths. Usually, large
carrying cloths are
called cargadores.
They can be used to
carry bundles of goods
on the head or babies
on the back. A tzute
diario, or daily
use carrying cloth
for small purchases
and personal possessions
is not unlike a purse,
an indispensable utilitarian
article for the majority
of women. Tzutes,
when not being used
for carrying, can
be worn over the shoulder
or folded on the head
depending on village
tradition. Toallas
(towels), servilletas
(napkins), chivos
or tortilleras
(tortilla covers)
are all examples of
tzutes.
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Although cloths of varying purposes are called "tzutes", variations in design often indicate the function of a given cloth. The elegant white tzute with large brocaded birds typical of Concepción Chiquirichapa is used as a basket cover or wrapping cloth, while a larger dark blue or jaspe-striped tzute serves as a shawl or sunshade when worn folded on the head. In San Antonio Aguas Calientes, a two panel, richly brocaded tzute is sometimes made by the bride to give to the groom's mother. |
Other special use tzutes are used only on ceremonial occasions such as cofradía events, weddings, funerals, events that entail carrying saints (kaperrajes), making sacred offerings (pizbal-cotzij), or being used as altar cloths (manteles). The tzute de vara is used to carry the cofradía staff of office. A tzute for candles is called a servilleta de candela or chuj-cofradia. In Solola there are two types of tzutes worn by men in special ceremonies for the cofradía, one worn over the head with three corners visible and a tzute grande worn over the shoulders. |
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 Small
variations in striping
pattern or brocade design
on a tzute can
identify the origin of
the owner and socio-religious
position in the community.
For example, tzutes
from the aldea,
Ilom, of Chajul are distinguished
from those of the municipal
seat by the preference
of black and burnt orange
in the warp stripes. The
woman's tzute from
aldea Llano de
la Virgen of San Juan
Sacatepéquez often has
a distinctive brocaded
design called kumatzin
rosa (snake shape-rose),
unlike those of San Juan.
As is true with any element of traditional traje, every aspect of design gives subtle clues as to the piece's use, provenance and economic resources of the owner.
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